Today we had planned another variation to the official trail since we wouldn’t stop in Aggsbach Dorf and instead would continue another 7km or so to the pilgrimage place Maria Lanegg. Therefore we got up earlier than the days before…
Sleeping in the Golden Star Apartment in Melk was great, it was totally quiet and not even the Abbey’s bells woke us. Breakfast, since self-made, was less than usual and therefore quick and we started today’s hike at 7.45 a.m.
The main square of Melk wasn’t so busy during this time of the day than yesterday afternoon and it was rather cool compared with the last days.
The first 5km were rather uninspiring along the main streets through Melk and its surroundings. A few raindrops fell and it was all grey and dull. So we made a good pace and soon reached greener spots again.
Then the path led us uphill and through a residential area and afterwards through the forest before we emerged at a plateau called Pielachberg. It wasn’t very exciting but easy hiking.
Then we hiked downhill again, through the forest, the last km or so rather steep. In the distance we already saw the castle Schönbühel. At the height of the Danube we hiked on a paved pedestrian lane for another km or so before we passed the beautiful castle. Unfortunately it’s privately owned and can’t be visited.
Afterwards we went – yes, correctly guessed – uphill again, at first through meadows and of course now and not in the forest it started to rain. We covered our backpacks and got out our umbrellas and continued hiking. As to spite us, 10 minutes later, when we started into the forest again, it stopped. 🤣
Now we hiked through the beautiful Dunkelsteinerwald up to the plateau Hohenwarthberg. There we found a bench underneath a tree (in case it would start to rain again) and made a short pre-lunch break. Only a herd of cows watched us, there were no people all around. Bliss!
Soon thereafter we were lead down through the forest again where we met two real hikers for the first time on this trail. To be fair, they were just day hikers but they were far off any paved street where a car could get you.
At 11.30 a.m. we arrived in Aggsbach Dorf where a lot of construction work was happening due to the damages the floods in July caused. We stopped at a restaurant just at the Danube for a coffee and cake break. And oh boy, that was the most expensive espresso I’ve ever had! 4 Euros for a watery, weak brew where every Italian barista would die out of shame that someone could call this espresso. Well, lesson learned – don’t stop at restaurants next to the Donauradweg.
Soon we continued through Aggsbach Dorf where you could still plainly see how hard the village had been hit by the floods in July. 😔 Then we hiked through the forest in the direction of Burgruine Aggstein, Austria’s most famous castle ruins.
Despite the weather, Aggstein was well visited and we considered whether we should pay the entry or not. But then we did it anyway. You never know when you’ll visit it a second time. And it was so worth the money – the view from every corner was amazing and we climbed every tower and took pictures from every angle. It was amazing!
After we’ve finished roaming the castle we continued on again. Only 4km separated us from our destination and in the far distance we could already see the beautiful pilgrimage church of Maria Lanegg.
The whole village was totally quiet, nearly no people around and surrounded by the Dunkelsteinerwald. I wanted just to stay and live there!
We found our awesome accommodation easily and probably have the best view from the bed tonight:
We ate at the local and ONLY restaurant in the region and when walked back we even saw sheep! Now, this really is a place to live! 😅
Today in numbers:
- 26km
- 1050m up and 800m down
- Hiking time: 5h (castle roaming time excluded)
- Total time: 7h
Toll! Ich freue mich immer auf deine Tagesberichte!